Last summer I received a phone call from a young man who said my neighbor gave him my number. A red warning light started flashing in my brain—the last time I received a call like this I ended up enduring a 2-hour vacuum cleaner demonstration. It was not a pleasant experience.
This time the caller said he was heading off to college soon and needed to complete a few more demonstrations of Cutco knives so he could gain credit toward earning a scholarship. Between the “Can you help me out?” plea and the fact that he was demonstrating knives, I couldn’t turn him down.
Unlike the vacuum cleaner sales call, I was really excited at the prospect of this visit. I had a handful of Cutco steak knives that I had received as a gift many years ago, and although they were used quite infrequently, I always liked them. And chopping things is, in my mind, one of the most relaxing and therapeutic parts of cooking. Seriously.
I welcomed the young man into my home a few days later. I listened patiently as he went through his education process on how knives are made, what to look for, what are some of the drawbacks of cheap knives—things I had learned through previous cooking classes, a knife skills class, and trial & error, but that perhaps many people didn’t know. But despite the sales pitch and the interesting demonstrations, these knives with their ridged blades and angular, ergonomically correct handles didn’t take my breath away like my sleek, scary-sharp Wusthof knives.
This was not purely a style-over-substance debate. My Wusthof knives fared quite well in the comparative Cutco tests the salesman performed in my kitchen. The salesman seemed surprised that my knives were sharp and well honed, something I think many people neglect to do just because they don’t know how to do it.
The most significant issues I had against these knives were that 1) I can’t get my head around using a serrated knife for most of my cutting, and 2) there were just so many different knives for specialized purposes that seemed unnecessary. Which leads to this question:
What knives does one really need?
There is an important distinction between “need” and “want.” I recognize that. I have many knives in my drawer, and I love them all (or at least most of them). But when push comes to shove, just three knives can get you through most all of your kitchen adventures: a chef’s knife, a paring knife, and a serrated knife. Some people will tell you that you should also have a flexible boning knife, but I have found that I can do pretty much any task with these three.
The chef’s knife serves most chopping purposes. It has the broadest range of uses and is my go-to knife for nearly everything. The traditional chef’s knife has a smooth, curved blade that is well suited to the rocking motion used when you slice and dice. The trendy new variation on this, the Santoku knife, has a flat blade with dimples on the side designed to reduce friction as you slice through food. Either the traditional chef’s knife or the Santoku function quite well as your all-purpose knife. Whether you choose a 6- or 8-inch blade is purely a matter of preference based on what feels right in your hand.
The paring knife, the short stubby knife in your drawer, handles the finer knife work thanks to its shorter blade and easy fit in your palm. It can be used in place of a vegetable peeler when needed and is also good at trimming mushrooms or cutting other small items.
The serrated blade is best for tearing through tougher surfaces—bread crust, cooked meats, or a tomato skin. I have a bread knife that I often use for slicing pork tenderloin or other meats just because it does the job so well. I’m sure that’s not what they teach at the Culinary Institute, but maybe I’d get points for resourcefulness.
Beyond these three knives, you can expand your collection in many different directions. I have multiples of some types of knives that I use a lot so that I can have one of my marathon weekend cooking sessions and always have a clean knife available to me. So I have both a chef’s knife and a Santoku knife, as well as two paring knives. You can also get more specialized knives, which is where the expansive selections of Cutco knives (or, for that matter, any large knife set) come into play. Some of these special players include a boning knife if you debone a lot of chickens or filet a lot of fish; a grapefruit knife if that’s your thing; a carving knife; or kitchen shears (another favorite of mine).
So even if you have decided what knives you need, do you need to pitch the knives in your drawer & start over?
Not necessarily.
I firmly believe that an investment in a few quality tools in the kitchen makes cooking a more enjoyable experience and results in fewer mistakes in the end. My own set of knives is much like the entirety of my house: a combination of things that were given to me, handed down, and items we bought ourselves. My beautiful family of knives represents a blend of Wusthof (my favorites), Chicago Cutlery (from my wedding registry) and a lone CIA knife (that’s Culinary Institute of America, not the other CIA) that I received as part of a cooking boot camp class.
So, take a look at what you have today, what you need, and replace or fill any gaps as needed. Here are my suggestions:
1. If you’re buying a new knife, invest in quality. Look for knives where the metal extends from the tip of the knife all the way through the handle. Avoid wooden handles which can warp and collect germs. You don’t have to spend a fortune on a knife, but if you’re eyeing a new chef’s knife and it only costs $20, you might want to set your sights a little higher.
2. Hone your knives regularly with a sharpening steel. That’s the tool that looks like a metal dowel with a handle. It serves to align the teeth of the blade so that it remains sharp. A sharp knife is actually a lot safer than a dull knife because it’s less likely to slip off of whatever you’re cutting and into your finger.
3. Sharpen your knives every few years. Honing keeps the knife in good shape, but every few years you need to take a more dramatic step and actually get them sharpened, which actually removes some of the metal in order to create a new edge. This can be done by a professional (our grocery store actually offers this service every year around Thanksgiving), or you can try a sharpening device.
4. Wash your knives by hand to avoid damaging the blade. If the knife blade bangs against other silverware in the dishwasher it can put dings in the blade, or the tip can snap off. In all honesty, I put mine in the dishwasher but I make sure the knife is the only thing in that particular slot in order to reduce the risk of damage.
Happy slicing!
Monday, March 7, 2011
Tuesday, December 7, 2010
Flipping the Bird (or Not)
Are you sick of turkey yet?
I’m not. I didn’t cook a thing for Thanksgiving this year, nor did I have any leftovers to contend with for the following week.
Don’t get me wrong, I had a fabulous holiday. Instead of the traditional dinner at a family member’s house, we traveled to Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia and enjoyed our classic meal in a more rustic and quite memorable setting. Good food, good company, good times.
And, yet, I’m feeling somewhat deprived. By this time of year I’ve typically spent hours in the kitchen doing holiday cooking of some sort or another, but travel and other distractions have kept me largely out of the kitchen. So it’s time to take matters into my own hands, get caught up with my cooking and make myself some leftovers.
Roasting a turkey is, as you may know, a ritual that is not without its challenges. Getting the dark meat cooked through without drying out the breast can be tricky. Many articles I’ve read suggest starting the turkey breast-side down, then flipping it partway through the cooking process so the bird cooks evenly. I’ve had good results cooking my turkey in a cooking bag, using a Nesco roaster, and using a roasting plan plus foil. I also had a horrible first attempt at brining a turkey (though I haven’t given up on the idea). But my favorite way to do it is to roast a whole turkey breast—with bones and skin—and not mess with the rest. My family doesn’t like the dark meat anyway, so why bother?
You don’t even have to flip the bird with this recipe, because the moisture from the olive oil and onions keep the meat from getting dry.
This roast turkey breast is awesome for dinner but also works quite well sliced for sandwiches. And isn’t that the best way to eat turkey leftovers anyway?
One turkey breast, bone in, skin on (these are typically sold as a half breast)
One large onion (or two small onions), quartered
1 tbsp fresh or 1 tsp dried chopped sage
Two whole cloves garlic
One rib celery, cut into large chunks
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp black pepper, ground
2 tbsp olive oil
Heat oven to 350 F. Wash the turkey and pat dry. Set onto roasting rack.
Place all remaining ingredients except olive oil into a food processor and chop thoroughly. Add the olive oil while the processor is running and pulverize mix until it is a chunky, soupy paste.
Wash hands well (use gloves if desired). Work your fingers gently under the skin of the turkey to separate it and create a pocket between the skin and the meat. Spread the onion mixture throughout the pocket, covering all areas of the meat. If there are any areas where the meat is not covered by skin, cover it with the onion mixture as well.
Place turkey into the oven and roast until the skin reaches the color you prefer. Then cover it with foil and cook until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 175 degrees F. As a rule of thumb, plan for 25-30 minutes of roasting per pound of turkey.
Remove the turkey from the oven and allow to rest at least 10 minutes before carving.
Happy leftovers!
I’m not. I didn’t cook a thing for Thanksgiving this year, nor did I have any leftovers to contend with for the following week.
Don’t get me wrong, I had a fabulous holiday. Instead of the traditional dinner at a family member’s house, we traveled to Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia and enjoyed our classic meal in a more rustic and quite memorable setting. Good food, good company, good times.
And, yet, I’m feeling somewhat deprived. By this time of year I’ve typically spent hours in the kitchen doing holiday cooking of some sort or another, but travel and other distractions have kept me largely out of the kitchen. So it’s time to take matters into my own hands, get caught up with my cooking and make myself some leftovers.
Roasting a turkey is, as you may know, a ritual that is not without its challenges. Getting the dark meat cooked through without drying out the breast can be tricky. Many articles I’ve read suggest starting the turkey breast-side down, then flipping it partway through the cooking process so the bird cooks evenly. I’ve had good results cooking my turkey in a cooking bag, using a Nesco roaster, and using a roasting plan plus foil. I also had a horrible first attempt at brining a turkey (though I haven’t given up on the idea). But my favorite way to do it is to roast a whole turkey breast—with bones and skin—and not mess with the rest. My family doesn’t like the dark meat anyway, so why bother?
You don’t even have to flip the bird with this recipe, because the moisture from the olive oil and onions keep the meat from getting dry.
This roast turkey breast is awesome for dinner but also works quite well sliced for sandwiches. And isn’t that the best way to eat turkey leftovers anyway?
One turkey breast, bone in, skin on (these are typically sold as a half breast)
One large onion (or two small onions), quartered
1 tbsp fresh or 1 tsp dried chopped sage
Two whole cloves garlic
One rib celery, cut into large chunks
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp black pepper, ground
2 tbsp olive oil
Heat oven to 350 F. Wash the turkey and pat dry. Set onto roasting rack.
Place all remaining ingredients except olive oil into a food processor and chop thoroughly. Add the olive oil while the processor is running and pulverize mix until it is a chunky, soupy paste.
Wash hands well (use gloves if desired). Work your fingers gently under the skin of the turkey to separate it and create a pocket between the skin and the meat. Spread the onion mixture throughout the pocket, covering all areas of the meat. If there are any areas where the meat is not covered by skin, cover it with the onion mixture as well.
Place turkey into the oven and roast until the skin reaches the color you prefer. Then cover it with foil and cook until the meat reaches an internal temperature of 175 degrees F. As a rule of thumb, plan for 25-30 minutes of roasting per pound of turkey.
Remove the turkey from the oven and allow to rest at least 10 minutes before carving.
Happy leftovers!
Monday, September 27, 2010
A few of my favorite things
As a food lover, I sometimes obsess over new flavors I experience. That happened to me a few weeks ago when I tried almond butter. I read an article in my husband’s Runner’s World magazine (September 2010, pg 52) that compared peanut butter, a long-time favorite fuel for athletes, to almond butter. They both have the same amount of fat, but almond butter has less saturated fat and more calcium, magnesium and vitamin E than peanut butter.
I bought Justin’s Almond Butter in the natural foods section of my grocery store, a brand I chose over the others purely based on its packaging. It was fabulous—a grainier consistency than smooth peanut butter with a wonderful roasted almond flavor. After trying a spoonful on its own, I made an almond butter & jelly sandwich and have had one for lunch most days ever since. It’s also great smeared on apples and would also taste great on a bagel.
One week later, while watching the Cooking Channel (another new favorite of mine), I saw Justin and his nut butters featured on a program called “Food Crafters.” It turns out he’s a hiking fanatic who developed these nut butters as an alternative to energy gels and created his recipes obsessively by pulling all-nighters in his small kitchen. I patted myself on the back for making such an excellent choice of almond butters my first time out. (Yes, I know, it was just the packaging.)
Not all of my food obsessions are based on random purchases at the grocery store, but all have become favorites because of a first, addiction-developing taste that connected with me from the start. Here are a few more of my favorite things that I heartily recommend trying. (NOTE: These items are here solely based on my passion for them. I have not received, asked for, or even considered any compensation for including them here.)
Pleasant Ridge Reserve cheese
This is an artisanal cheese made from Uplands Cheese Company in Dodgeville, Wisconsin, that I tried at the Kohler Food & Wine Experience several years ago. It was in a wine and cheese pairing seminar—the same one that introduced me to Moscato d’Asti wine (see my earlier blog for more info). Pleasant Ridge is made in the style of gruyere and has a smooth, slightly nutty flavor. We adore this cheese in our home, kids and parents alike. It can be hard to find—in Northeast Wisconsin, their website lists only McKnight & Carlson Wines in Appleton and Oshkosh and Nala’s Fromagerie in Green Bay (both are great places to shop, and they really know their stuff)—but well worth it.
Malbec wine
Malbec grapes grow primarily in South America, primarily in Argentina. The resulting wine is dark and full-bodied with nice spiciness. It has started to appear more frequently on wine lists but is often (and unfairly) overshadowed by the more commonly known varietals. If you like Shiraz or want a more interesting alternative to Merlot, give this a shot. My absolute favorite is Catena, and there are many other Malbecs including Felino, Crios and Alamos that can be very good as well.
Alterra Blue Heeler coffee
Like many people, my day does not begin until I have had my coffee, and it’s not uncommon to see me with a coffee mug in my hand at all times of the day. I adore the taste, the smell, the caffeine. Of the many coffee beans I have tried over the years, I have locked in on Indonesian beans as my go-to coffee. Alterra Blue Heeler is a blend of regular and dark-roasted Sumatra beans that make a bold, full-bodied brew that lacks the acidity and other sharp flavors that many other regions’ coffees exhibit. I use it for espresso, but it also makes a fine cup of regular coffee. The Alterra beans seem fresher and more flavorful than other Sumatra beans I’ve tried, so I order whole beans shipped directly to me one to two times per month. Whatever coffee you buy, PLEASE grind your own beans—it makes for a much better cup of coffee!!
I could go on for days, but frankly I’d rather hear from you on this subject so I can find even more food addictions. What are your favorite things? Let me know at pythiaeats@yahoo.com or post a comment.
Per a reader request, here are links to the products and purveyors mentioned above:
Justin’s Nut Butters: http://www.justinsnutbutter.com/
Uplands Farms (Pleasant Ridge Reserve Cheese): http://www.uplandscheese.com/
McKnight & Carlson Wine Sales: http://www.mc-wines.com/
Nala’s Fromagerie: http://www.nalascheese.com/
Catena Malbec (get from your favorite wine shop; mine is McKnight & Carlson): http://www.catenawines.com/
Alterra Coffee: http://www.alterracoffee.com/
Copyright 2010 Pythia LLC. All rights reserved.
I bought Justin’s Almond Butter in the natural foods section of my grocery store, a brand I chose over the others purely based on its packaging. It was fabulous—a grainier consistency than smooth peanut butter with a wonderful roasted almond flavor. After trying a spoonful on its own, I made an almond butter & jelly sandwich and have had one for lunch most days ever since. It’s also great smeared on apples and would also taste great on a bagel.
One week later, while watching the Cooking Channel (another new favorite of mine), I saw Justin and his nut butters featured on a program called “Food Crafters.” It turns out he’s a hiking fanatic who developed these nut butters as an alternative to energy gels and created his recipes obsessively by pulling all-nighters in his small kitchen. I patted myself on the back for making such an excellent choice of almond butters my first time out. (Yes, I know, it was just the packaging.)
Not all of my food obsessions are based on random purchases at the grocery store, but all have become favorites because of a first, addiction-developing taste that connected with me from the start. Here are a few more of my favorite things that I heartily recommend trying. (NOTE: These items are here solely based on my passion for them. I have not received, asked for, or even considered any compensation for including them here.)
Pleasant Ridge Reserve cheese
This is an artisanal cheese made from Uplands Cheese Company in Dodgeville, Wisconsin, that I tried at the Kohler Food & Wine Experience several years ago. It was in a wine and cheese pairing seminar—the same one that introduced me to Moscato d’Asti wine (see my earlier blog for more info). Pleasant Ridge is made in the style of gruyere and has a smooth, slightly nutty flavor. We adore this cheese in our home, kids and parents alike. It can be hard to find—in Northeast Wisconsin, their website lists only McKnight & Carlson Wines in Appleton and Oshkosh and Nala’s Fromagerie in Green Bay (both are great places to shop, and they really know their stuff)—but well worth it.
Malbec wine
Malbec grapes grow primarily in South America, primarily in Argentina. The resulting wine is dark and full-bodied with nice spiciness. It has started to appear more frequently on wine lists but is often (and unfairly) overshadowed by the more commonly known varietals. If you like Shiraz or want a more interesting alternative to Merlot, give this a shot. My absolute favorite is Catena, and there are many other Malbecs including Felino, Crios and Alamos that can be very good as well.
Alterra Blue Heeler coffee
Like many people, my day does not begin until I have had my coffee, and it’s not uncommon to see me with a coffee mug in my hand at all times of the day. I adore the taste, the smell, the caffeine. Of the many coffee beans I have tried over the years, I have locked in on Indonesian beans as my go-to coffee. Alterra Blue Heeler is a blend of regular and dark-roasted Sumatra beans that make a bold, full-bodied brew that lacks the acidity and other sharp flavors that many other regions’ coffees exhibit. I use it for espresso, but it also makes a fine cup of regular coffee. The Alterra beans seem fresher and more flavorful than other Sumatra beans I’ve tried, so I order whole beans shipped directly to me one to two times per month. Whatever coffee you buy, PLEASE grind your own beans—it makes for a much better cup of coffee!!
I could go on for days, but frankly I’d rather hear from you on this subject so I can find even more food addictions. What are your favorite things? Let me know at pythiaeats@yahoo.com or post a comment.
Per a reader request, here are links to the products and purveyors mentioned above:
Justin’s Nut Butters: http://www.justinsnutbutter.com/
Uplands Farms (Pleasant Ridge Reserve Cheese): http://www.uplandscheese.com/
McKnight & Carlson Wine Sales: http://www.mc-wines.com/
Nala’s Fromagerie: http://www.nalascheese.com/
Catena Malbec (get from your favorite wine shop; mine is McKnight & Carlson): http://www.catenawines.com/
Alterra Coffee: http://www.alterracoffee.com/
Copyright 2010 Pythia LLC. All rights reserved.
Thursday, September 16, 2010
Meatball Season!
As Fall has arrived and football season is underway, it's only appropriate that this be declared meatball season as well. Drizzly days with a chill in the air tend to coax me toward heartier foods that warm the kitchen and scent the air. Meatballs certainly fit that bill.
Last year my husband hosted a Cub Scout den meeting at our house. I had decided to make meatballs for dinner that night. I made a big batch so I could cook once and have enough for multiple meals, but, in my typical fashion, I had started too late to feed my family and cook all of the rest before the boys arrived with their dads. While the house smelled wonderful, the kitchen was a mess. I pulled the last meatballs out of the oven, put them on the stove to cool, and disappeared upstairs so I wouldn’t be clanging in the kitchen while they had their meeting in the next room.
When I came downstairs again near the end of the meeting I found the dads standing around the stove eating the meatballs with their fingers. It was an amusing sight and a great compliment.
These meatballs are fabulous for their versatility. They are great for meat-and-potatoes kinds of people, and since they’re a reasonable size, they can also be used as the meat portion of a lighter meal. You can choose to use leaner meats and load them up with vegetables in the mix, or stick with the more traditional beef/pork/veal combinations. And they can be served on their own or integrated into a sauce. Best of all, they freeze beautifully as individual meatballs so I can thaw what I need for a quick weeknight meal.
Ingredients:
3 pounds ground meat—any one (or, preferably, combination) of the following: sirloin, turkey, chicken, pork, or veal
1-1/2 cups finely chopped onions
3 cloves garlic, minced
1-1/2 cups fine dry bread crumbs (plain)
1-1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
¾ cup skim milk
3 tbsp fresh or 3 tsp dried parsley
3 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
3 tbsp Dijon mustard
1-1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
Optional ingredients:
1 small bell pepper, finely chopped
1 pkg chopped spinach, cooked
½ cup carrots, finely shredded
Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Spray muffin tins very lightly with canola oil.
Place the meat in a large bowl. Add the onions, garlic, bread crumbs and cheese (plus any optional ingredients, if using) and mix well with your hands. Add eggs and milk and integrate well with your hands. Add remaining ingredients and mix until all ingredients are well dispersed.
Scoop the meat mixture into the muffin tins (I use a #20 disher, which is about the size of an ice cream scoop). Bake for 30 minutes or until browned on top and meatballs are cooked through. Serve immediately, or allow to cool and freeze in a large freezer bag so you can grab as many as you want whenever you need them.
How to use them:
• Serve with barbecue sauce or ketchup for dipping, along with mashed potatoes and a veggie.
• Simmer in marinara sauce (roasted tomato sauce, anyone?) for 20 minutes and serve over pasta.
• Instead of making meatballs, form the mixture into loaves (either free-form on a parchment-lined baking sheet or in a loaf pan) and bake as a meatloaf.
Last year my husband hosted a Cub Scout den meeting at our house. I had decided to make meatballs for dinner that night. I made a big batch so I could cook once and have enough for multiple meals, but, in my typical fashion, I had started too late to feed my family and cook all of the rest before the boys arrived with their dads. While the house smelled wonderful, the kitchen was a mess. I pulled the last meatballs out of the oven, put them on the stove to cool, and disappeared upstairs so I wouldn’t be clanging in the kitchen while they had their meeting in the next room.
When I came downstairs again near the end of the meeting I found the dads standing around the stove eating the meatballs with their fingers. It was an amusing sight and a great compliment.
These meatballs are fabulous for their versatility. They are great for meat-and-potatoes kinds of people, and since they’re a reasonable size, they can also be used as the meat portion of a lighter meal. You can choose to use leaner meats and load them up with vegetables in the mix, or stick with the more traditional beef/pork/veal combinations. And they can be served on their own or integrated into a sauce. Best of all, they freeze beautifully as individual meatballs so I can thaw what I need for a quick weeknight meal.
Ingredients:
3 pounds ground meat—any one (or, preferably, combination) of the following: sirloin, turkey, chicken, pork, or veal
1-1/2 cups finely chopped onions
3 cloves garlic, minced
1-1/2 cups fine dry bread crumbs (plain)
1-1/2 cups grated Parmesan cheese
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
¾ cup skim milk
3 tbsp fresh or 3 tsp dried parsley
3 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
3 tbsp Dijon mustard
1-1/2 tsp salt
1 tsp black pepper
Optional ingredients:
1 small bell pepper, finely chopped
1 pkg chopped spinach, cooked
½ cup carrots, finely shredded
Preheat oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Spray muffin tins very lightly with canola oil.
Place the meat in a large bowl. Add the onions, garlic, bread crumbs and cheese (plus any optional ingredients, if using) and mix well with your hands. Add eggs and milk and integrate well with your hands. Add remaining ingredients and mix until all ingredients are well dispersed.
Scoop the meat mixture into the muffin tins (I use a #20 disher, which is about the size of an ice cream scoop). Bake for 30 minutes or until browned on top and meatballs are cooked through. Serve immediately, or allow to cool and freeze in a large freezer bag so you can grab as many as you want whenever you need them.
How to use them:
• Serve with barbecue sauce or ketchup for dipping, along with mashed potatoes and a veggie.
• Simmer in marinara sauce (roasted tomato sauce, anyone?) for 20 minutes and serve over pasta.
• Instead of making meatballs, form the mixture into loaves (either free-form on a parchment-lined baking sheet or in a loaf pan) and bake as a meatloaf.
Wednesday, August 4, 2010
The Great Mash-Up
I have been making mashed potatoes wrong for years. This was quite a shocker to me, someone who knows her way around a kitchen and considers mashed potatoes to be one of the ultimate comfort foods.
I came to this rude awakening last year when I attended Advanced Culinary Boot Camp at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. It was a thrill to be working in a professional kitchen with a real chef who challenged us to make and try new things. I was feeling pretty good about myself, having maneuvered pretty well through the dishes we’d made thus far. Apparently I was due to be taken down a notch for my overconfidence.
It started when I was cutting up the potatoes. I was diligent about peeling them thoroughly and cutting out the eyes so my end product would be perfect. The recipe said to quarter the potatoes, but I interpreted this loosely since I had always cut them into 1” chunks for boiling and proceeded as I had done in the past.
“What does ‘quartering’ mean?” Chef asked over my shoulder.
“Well, four pieces, but these potatoes are kind of big so I . . .”
“No. Stick to the directions.”
“But won’t they cook faster if they’re in 1” chunks?” I asked naively.
“Yes, but you’ll leach out too much of the potato’s starch. Stick to the directions.”
OK, I stood corrected. Then Chef noticed the pot of water on the stove that was heating over a high flame.
“What’s the water for?” Chef asked.
“For the potatoes,” I responded. In my attempt to save time, I have always brought the water to a boil before adding the potatoes so, once again, they’ll cook faster.
“No,” Chef sighed again. “You put the potatoes in cold water. That way the potatoes heat up at the same time the water does, and by the time the water comes to a simmer your potatoes should be almost done. If you put them into boiling water, the outside of the potatoes will cook faster than the inside and they’ll get mushy.”
Ouch. Two blows to the ego on one simple dish. The third blow (they always come in threes, right?) came when the potatoes were in the pot on the stove. My definition of a simmer is a light boil with lots of little bubbles constantly surfacing. Chef’s definition is that the water is steaming and there is an occasional “bloop” from a bubble, but nothing more. My simmer was, in his eyes, a boil; my definition of boiling was more of what he considered to be a rolling boil.
The rest of the preparation went well, as did the rest of the week, and I have followed Chef’s instructions ever since. So now I share his instructions with you, along with some side notes and variations on the preparation and final product.
Mashed Potatoes
Potatoes—preferably russet or Yukon Gold
Cold water
Scrub and peel potatoes, then cut into quarters (that’s four pieces—not open to interpretation). Place potatoes in a pot and cover with cold water to 1” above the top of the potatoes. Bring to a simmer, then begin testing the potatoes every few minutes for doneness. You should be able to pierce the potato easily with a fork when it is done.
Drain the water from the pot. For the best texture, run the potatoes through a ricer (which, if you’ve never seen one, looks like a giant garlic press) or mash the potatoes. Add heavy cream, butter, salt and pepper to taste.
Variation #1: Healthier version (also dairy-free)
Substitute chicken broth for at least half of the water (can use in place of all the water if you choose). When potatoes are cooked, drain most of the cooking liquid off but reserve enough for mashing, which you will use in place of the heavy cream. The easiest way to do this is to drain off all of the liquid but pour about ½ cup into a liquid measuring cup or bowl so you can add it back to the potatoes after ricing or mashing them. I have tried to eyeball this by leaving just enough liquid in the pot and then mashing, but it’s too easy to end up with not enough liquid (so you have to supplement with milk anyway) or too much liquid (so you get soupy potatoes). Add salt & pepper to taste, and butter (or butter substitute) if desired.
Variation #2: Umame version
Umame is the term for the fifth distinct taste our tongues are able to identify, the one that was added in the recent past to round out sweet, salty, bitter and sour. The Japanese scientist who discovered it also named it, and the name loosely translates to “deliciousness.” Umame—pronounced like “OO-ma-may”—is found in beef, mushrooms, garlic and other items. Google it sometime if you’re interested.
This is my umame version of mashed potatoes because it contains roasted garlic and truffle oil, which turns this wonderful comfort food into the ultimate in deliciousness.
Before cooking the potatoes, start the garlic roasting in the oven. Slice the top off of a head of garlic (or more if you want to reserve some for other uses) and place it in an oven-safe dish. Do NOT peel the garlic. Sprinkle salt & pepper on top and drizzle the top lightly with olive oil. Bake in the oven at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for about 40 minutes, until the garlic cloves turn caramel-colored and the house smells like garlic.
Start cooking the potatoes using either method (water or chicken broth) when there are about 10 minutes left on the garlic.
Remove the garlic from the dish and allow to cool. Squeeze the cloves from their papery skin into a clean dish or directly into the potatoes if you’ve already drained them. Rice or mash the garlic with the potatoes, adding the cream or butter (if using) and salt & pepper, plus 1-2 teaspoons of truffle oil into the mixture while mashing. Heavenly.
I came to this rude awakening last year when I attended Advanced Culinary Boot Camp at the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. It was a thrill to be working in a professional kitchen with a real chef who challenged us to make and try new things. I was feeling pretty good about myself, having maneuvered pretty well through the dishes we’d made thus far. Apparently I was due to be taken down a notch for my overconfidence.
It started when I was cutting up the potatoes. I was diligent about peeling them thoroughly and cutting out the eyes so my end product would be perfect. The recipe said to quarter the potatoes, but I interpreted this loosely since I had always cut them into 1” chunks for boiling and proceeded as I had done in the past.
“What does ‘quartering’ mean?” Chef asked over my shoulder.
“Well, four pieces, but these potatoes are kind of big so I . . .”
“No. Stick to the directions.”
“But won’t they cook faster if they’re in 1” chunks?” I asked naively.
“Yes, but you’ll leach out too much of the potato’s starch. Stick to the directions.”
OK, I stood corrected. Then Chef noticed the pot of water on the stove that was heating over a high flame.
“What’s the water for?” Chef asked.
“For the potatoes,” I responded. In my attempt to save time, I have always brought the water to a boil before adding the potatoes so, once again, they’ll cook faster.
“No,” Chef sighed again. “You put the potatoes in cold water. That way the potatoes heat up at the same time the water does, and by the time the water comes to a simmer your potatoes should be almost done. If you put them into boiling water, the outside of the potatoes will cook faster than the inside and they’ll get mushy.”
Ouch. Two blows to the ego on one simple dish. The third blow (they always come in threes, right?) came when the potatoes were in the pot on the stove. My definition of a simmer is a light boil with lots of little bubbles constantly surfacing. Chef’s definition is that the water is steaming and there is an occasional “bloop” from a bubble, but nothing more. My simmer was, in his eyes, a boil; my definition of boiling was more of what he considered to be a rolling boil.
The rest of the preparation went well, as did the rest of the week, and I have followed Chef’s instructions ever since. So now I share his instructions with you, along with some side notes and variations on the preparation and final product.
Mashed Potatoes
Potatoes—preferably russet or Yukon Gold
Cold water
Scrub and peel potatoes, then cut into quarters (that’s four pieces—not open to interpretation). Place potatoes in a pot and cover with cold water to 1” above the top of the potatoes. Bring to a simmer, then begin testing the potatoes every few minutes for doneness. You should be able to pierce the potato easily with a fork when it is done.
Drain the water from the pot. For the best texture, run the potatoes through a ricer (which, if you’ve never seen one, looks like a giant garlic press) or mash the potatoes. Add heavy cream, butter, salt and pepper to taste.
Variation #1: Healthier version (also dairy-free)
Substitute chicken broth for at least half of the water (can use in place of all the water if you choose). When potatoes are cooked, drain most of the cooking liquid off but reserve enough for mashing, which you will use in place of the heavy cream. The easiest way to do this is to drain off all of the liquid but pour about ½ cup into a liquid measuring cup or bowl so you can add it back to the potatoes after ricing or mashing them. I have tried to eyeball this by leaving just enough liquid in the pot and then mashing, but it’s too easy to end up with not enough liquid (so you have to supplement with milk anyway) or too much liquid (so you get soupy potatoes). Add salt & pepper to taste, and butter (or butter substitute) if desired.
Variation #2: Umame version
Umame is the term for the fifth distinct taste our tongues are able to identify, the one that was added in the recent past to round out sweet, salty, bitter and sour. The Japanese scientist who discovered it also named it, and the name loosely translates to “deliciousness.” Umame—pronounced like “OO-ma-may”—is found in beef, mushrooms, garlic and other items. Google it sometime if you’re interested.
This is my umame version of mashed potatoes because it contains roasted garlic and truffle oil, which turns this wonderful comfort food into the ultimate in deliciousness.
Before cooking the potatoes, start the garlic roasting in the oven. Slice the top off of a head of garlic (or more if you want to reserve some for other uses) and place it in an oven-safe dish. Do NOT peel the garlic. Sprinkle salt & pepper on top and drizzle the top lightly with olive oil. Bake in the oven at 350 degrees Fahrenheit for about 40 minutes, until the garlic cloves turn caramel-colored and the house smells like garlic.
Start cooking the potatoes using either method (water or chicken broth) when there are about 10 minutes left on the garlic.
Remove the garlic from the dish and allow to cool. Squeeze the cloves from their papery skin into a clean dish or directly into the potatoes if you’ve already drained them. Rice or mash the garlic with the potatoes, adding the cream or butter (if using) and salt & pepper, plus 1-2 teaspoons of truffle oil into the mixture while mashing. Heavenly.
Thursday, July 15, 2010
Farmer’s Market Bounty: Roasting Tomatoes
Once the summer temperatures finally reach their peak, I know I can expect our local farmer’s market to be overflowing with beautiful vegetables, fruit, flowers, cheese . . . and people. The growing season is short in Wisconsin, and it seems like everyone counts the days until this point since the wave of produce and people tend to converge on the center of town on the same weekend. Get to the farmer’s market early or you’re going to have to make do with the scraps.
Our strategy at the market is pretty straightforward: get to our favorite stands first to nab the best selection of the two to three things we absolutely want to get, then spend the rest of our time strolling through the market to see what else looks good. In mid July, it’s the tomato lady first so I can get a good ten to 15 pounds of Romas for roasting. If the tomatoes look especially good and I’m feeling ambitious, I’ll take everything she has.
An offshoot of our weekly farmer’s market ritual, roasting tomatoes for sauce has become an event of its own. Most weekends I spend either Saturday or Sunday afternoon filling the house with the irresistible scent of tomatoes, garlic, onions and herbs, then freezing the results so that we can enjoy this little piece of summer all through the winter. It’s a simple recipe, but the preparation can be putzy, as my mother would say, if you’re using larger tomatoes. But once the tomatoes are in the oven, they just stay there for three hours, leaving me time to putter through the house doing other things.
I prefer Romas for this recipe because their meaty texture holds up well to the roasting process and they caramelize nicely. Honestly, though, I have used all different kinds of tomatoes from cherry to beefsteak and had nice results. If your tomatoes taste more acidic, you may want to add sugar to the mixture when you’re turning the roasted tomatoes into sauce. If you are using a thinner, less meaty tomato, either leave them whole (as with cherry tomatoes) or reduce the temperature (as with beefsteak or other tomatoes) to keep them from burning. And enjoy playing with different combinations of flavors, both when roasting and when creating the sauce. The roasted tomatoes make an excellent foundation for many different dishes.
Ingredients:
Olive oil
10-15 pounds fresh Roma tomatoes
1 large or 2 small onions, roughly chopped
8 cloves fresh garlic, smashed, peeled, and roughly chopped
¼ cup chopped fresh herbs (basil, oregano, thyme, chives)
Salt & pepper to taste
Prepare 2-3 glass lasagna pans by drizzling 2-3 tsp of olive oil in each and tilting the pan to spread it. Preheat oven to 300° F.
Wash tomatoes and drain. If the tomatoes are 2” or less in length, leave them whole and spread them in a single layer in the pans. If they are larger, slice them in half, scoop out the seeds, and place them cut-side up in the pans. Sprinkle salt and pepper over the tomatoes.
Scatter the onions, garlic and herbs evenly over the tomatoes. Drizzle olive oil lightly over the top. If you are using whole tomatoes, you can toss the whole mixture with your fingers to mix well; for halved tomatoes, leave the “layered” mixture intact.
Roast tomatoes for three hours uncovered. Browning is good, even deep browning, but burning is not, so monitor the tomatoes’ progress and adjust the temperature downward if needed.
Remove the tomatoes from the oven and allow to cool on the stovetop.
Decision point 1: Freeze whole or puree first?
Freeze some of the tomatoes whole in a freezer bag if you like to toss a few of them into another dish (e.g., risotto) to add color and flavor.
Use a food processor to chop to desired consistency if you would like to use the tomatoes for sauce. Include the garlic and onions when you chop. Proceed to Decision Point 2 to create your sauce, or freeze into portion-sized containers for future use.
Decision point 2: What kind of sauce to make? Here are two options:
Rich tomato sauce: Pour chopped tomato mixture into a heavy saucepan and heat over a medium flame. Stir in vegetable broth, chicken stock or white wine to thin to desired sauce consistency (I use about ½ cup of liquid). Stir in 2-3 tsp balsamic vinegar, and add salt, pepper, and additional herbs to taste. Serve over pasta, use as a base for lasagna or pizza, or whatever suits your mood.
Tomato & Italian sausage sauce: Brown 1 lb. of Italian sausage in a pan. Add ½ cup diced onion and 1 diced bell pepper and sauté until onions are translucent. Pour tomato mixture over the top, adding 1-2 tsp balsamic vinegar and stirring well. If the mixture is too thick, add some liquid (white wine or broth) to thin to desired consistency. Serve over pasta.
Enjoy!
How do you use your roasted tomatoes? Let me know at pythiallc@yahoo.com.
Our strategy at the market is pretty straightforward: get to our favorite stands first to nab the best selection of the two to three things we absolutely want to get, then spend the rest of our time strolling through the market to see what else looks good. In mid July, it’s the tomato lady first so I can get a good ten to 15 pounds of Romas for roasting. If the tomatoes look especially good and I’m feeling ambitious, I’ll take everything she has.
An offshoot of our weekly farmer’s market ritual, roasting tomatoes for sauce has become an event of its own. Most weekends I spend either Saturday or Sunday afternoon filling the house with the irresistible scent of tomatoes, garlic, onions and herbs, then freezing the results so that we can enjoy this little piece of summer all through the winter. It’s a simple recipe, but the preparation can be putzy, as my mother would say, if you’re using larger tomatoes. But once the tomatoes are in the oven, they just stay there for three hours, leaving me time to putter through the house doing other things.
I prefer Romas for this recipe because their meaty texture holds up well to the roasting process and they caramelize nicely. Honestly, though, I have used all different kinds of tomatoes from cherry to beefsteak and had nice results. If your tomatoes taste more acidic, you may want to add sugar to the mixture when you’re turning the roasted tomatoes into sauce. If you are using a thinner, less meaty tomato, either leave them whole (as with cherry tomatoes) or reduce the temperature (as with beefsteak or other tomatoes) to keep them from burning. And enjoy playing with different combinations of flavors, both when roasting and when creating the sauce. The roasted tomatoes make an excellent foundation for many different dishes.
Ingredients:
Olive oil
10-15 pounds fresh Roma tomatoes
1 large or 2 small onions, roughly chopped
8 cloves fresh garlic, smashed, peeled, and roughly chopped
¼ cup chopped fresh herbs (basil, oregano, thyme, chives)
Salt & pepper to taste
Prepare 2-3 glass lasagna pans by drizzling 2-3 tsp of olive oil in each and tilting the pan to spread it. Preheat oven to 300° F.
Wash tomatoes and drain. If the tomatoes are 2” or less in length, leave them whole and spread them in a single layer in the pans. If they are larger, slice them in half, scoop out the seeds, and place them cut-side up in the pans. Sprinkle salt and pepper over the tomatoes.
Scatter the onions, garlic and herbs evenly over the tomatoes. Drizzle olive oil lightly over the top. If you are using whole tomatoes, you can toss the whole mixture with your fingers to mix well; for halved tomatoes, leave the “layered” mixture intact.
Roast tomatoes for three hours uncovered. Browning is good, even deep browning, but burning is not, so monitor the tomatoes’ progress and adjust the temperature downward if needed.
Remove the tomatoes from the oven and allow to cool on the stovetop.
Decision point 1: Freeze whole or puree first?
Freeze some of the tomatoes whole in a freezer bag if you like to toss a few of them into another dish (e.g., risotto) to add color and flavor.
Use a food processor to chop to desired consistency if you would like to use the tomatoes for sauce. Include the garlic and onions when you chop. Proceed to Decision Point 2 to create your sauce, or freeze into portion-sized containers for future use.
Decision point 2: What kind of sauce to make? Here are two options:
Rich tomato sauce: Pour chopped tomato mixture into a heavy saucepan and heat over a medium flame. Stir in vegetable broth, chicken stock or white wine to thin to desired sauce consistency (I use about ½ cup of liquid). Stir in 2-3 tsp balsamic vinegar, and add salt, pepper, and additional herbs to taste. Serve over pasta, use as a base for lasagna or pizza, or whatever suits your mood.
Tomato & Italian sausage sauce: Brown 1 lb. of Italian sausage in a pan. Add ½ cup diced onion and 1 diced bell pepper and sauté until onions are translucent. Pour tomato mixture over the top, adding 1-2 tsp balsamic vinegar and stirring well. If the mixture is too thick, add some liquid (white wine or broth) to thin to desired consistency. Serve over pasta.
Enjoy!
How do you use your roasted tomatoes? Let me know at pythiallc@yahoo.com.
Monday, July 5, 2010
The Ultimate in Comfort Food: Guinness-Braised Brisket
The ultimate comfort food, in my definition, is slow-cooked, hearty, and involves garlic and/or onions in some way. This doesn’t particularly match well to summer, when we avoid heating the entire kitchen with the oven while the air conditioning chugs to keep the house cool. However, when the craving hits, it must be satiated.
Braising is one of my favorite cooking techniques for comfort food because it creates moist, flavorful meat that falls apart without need for a knife. Braising involves simmering the meat in liquid that is ultimately served with it. This differs from poaching, a technique that also cooks the meat in liquid but the liquid is eventually discarded. Braising is well-suited to tougher (and often less expensive) pieces of meat like brisket where extended simmering breaks down the connective tissue and allows the flavors to fully permeate the meat. Tender cuts of meat like tenderloin or chicken breasts do better with faster dry-cooking methods; braising only toughens the muscle because there is no connective tissue or fat to break down.
In preparation for friends coming to dinner, I decided to go with a no-miss favorite: Guinness-braised brisket. Most people think of brisket as a barbecue favorite, but I’ve never actually tried it that way. I came across this recipe in Bon Appetit magazine from October 2009 and have made minor modifications to it to suit my taste and portion sizes (the original recipe serves 12, mine serves 6). I’ve increased the proportion of herbs, garlic and Guinness to beef because I think it provides a more intense flavor and it makes a really good sauce at the end.
In total, this recipe takes three hours in the oven plus 15-30 minutes of prep time. Much of the oven time is hands-off, which allows plenty of opportunity for making side dishes, cleaning the house for guests, or lounging and drinking the rest of the Guinness.
Ingredients:
1 Tbsp Kosher salt
2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp dry mustard powder
2 Tbsp chopped fresh sage
1 Tbsp dried thyme
3 lbs flat-cut brisket, trimmed but with some fat still remaining
3 cups vegetable broth or low-sodium chicken broth
1 12-oz. bottle of Guinness beer
4 bay leaves
2 tsp (packed) dark brown sugar
3 cups sliced onions
6 whole garlic cloves, peeled
1 Tbsp whole grain Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp malt vinegar
My Le Creuset Dutch oven works well for this recipe, but any heavy, ovenproof pot with a lid will work. You can also use a heavy roasting pan and cover it with foil when needed.
Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350° Fahrenheit. Mix the first 5 ingredients in a small bowl. Rub all over brisket.
Heat 2 cups of the broth in a heavy, ovenproof pot until it comes to a boil. Stir in Guinness, bay leaves and brown sugar and return to a boil. Add the brisket fat-side down and scatter the onion slices and garlic on top. Put on the lid and braise in the oven for 1 hour. Turn the meat over so that the onions and garlic fall into the liquid and the meat is fat-side up. Cover and braise for 2 more hours. Check periodically to ensure there is enough liquid in the pot, adding more broth if necessary.
Turn off the oven. Place the meat on an ovenproof platter and cover with foil, returning it to the oven to keep warm. Remove the bay leaves from the remaining juices and pour the juices into a saucepot. Add mustard and malt vinegar and stir. Heat the mixture well, then puree using a stick blender. Remove the meat from the oven and slice across the grain. Serve slices with the sauce. The brisket goes very well with potatoes—mashed, steamed or baked.
Braising is one of my favorite cooking techniques for comfort food because it creates moist, flavorful meat that falls apart without need for a knife. Braising involves simmering the meat in liquid that is ultimately served with it. This differs from poaching, a technique that also cooks the meat in liquid but the liquid is eventually discarded. Braising is well-suited to tougher (and often less expensive) pieces of meat like brisket where extended simmering breaks down the connective tissue and allows the flavors to fully permeate the meat. Tender cuts of meat like tenderloin or chicken breasts do better with faster dry-cooking methods; braising only toughens the muscle because there is no connective tissue or fat to break down.
In preparation for friends coming to dinner, I decided to go with a no-miss favorite: Guinness-braised brisket. Most people think of brisket as a barbecue favorite, but I’ve never actually tried it that way. I came across this recipe in Bon Appetit magazine from October 2009 and have made minor modifications to it to suit my taste and portion sizes (the original recipe serves 12, mine serves 6). I’ve increased the proportion of herbs, garlic and Guinness to beef because I think it provides a more intense flavor and it makes a really good sauce at the end.
In total, this recipe takes three hours in the oven plus 15-30 minutes of prep time. Much of the oven time is hands-off, which allows plenty of opportunity for making side dishes, cleaning the house for guests, or lounging and drinking the rest of the Guinness.
Ingredients:
1 Tbsp Kosher salt
2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
2 tsp dry mustard powder
2 Tbsp chopped fresh sage
1 Tbsp dried thyme
3 lbs flat-cut brisket, trimmed but with some fat still remaining
3 cups vegetable broth or low-sodium chicken broth
1 12-oz. bottle of Guinness beer
4 bay leaves
2 tsp (packed) dark brown sugar
3 cups sliced onions
6 whole garlic cloves, peeled
1 Tbsp whole grain Dijon mustard
1 Tbsp malt vinegar
My Le Creuset Dutch oven works well for this recipe, but any heavy, ovenproof pot with a lid will work. You can also use a heavy roasting pan and cover it with foil when needed.
Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350° Fahrenheit. Mix the first 5 ingredients in a small bowl. Rub all over brisket.
Heat 2 cups of the broth in a heavy, ovenproof pot until it comes to a boil. Stir in Guinness, bay leaves and brown sugar and return to a boil. Add the brisket fat-side down and scatter the onion slices and garlic on top. Put on the lid and braise in the oven for 1 hour. Turn the meat over so that the onions and garlic fall into the liquid and the meat is fat-side up. Cover and braise for 2 more hours. Check periodically to ensure there is enough liquid in the pot, adding more broth if necessary.
Turn off the oven. Place the meat on an ovenproof platter and cover with foil, returning it to the oven to keep warm. Remove the bay leaves from the remaining juices and pour the juices into a saucepot. Add mustard and malt vinegar and stir. Heat the mixture well, then puree using a stick blender. Remove the meat from the oven and slice across the grain. Serve slices with the sauce. The brisket goes very well with potatoes—mashed, steamed or baked.
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