Monday, May 16, 2011

Embracing color on your plate: purple rice!

You probably know that serving a range of color in our foods is more appealing to the eye and therefore makes the food more appetizing. More recently, scientists are telling us that the natural, bright colors of foods contain anthocyanins that our bodies need, and serving a combination of colors can be quite good for us.

But have you ever tried colored rice?

Personally, I’m a big believer in the idea that kids are more likely to try and like new foods if you keep them interesting and fun, and that includes using color. No, green eggs and ham don’t count: too monochromatic, and totally artificial. Sorry, Dr. Seuss.

So in the warm summer months, I raid the farmer’s market for purple potatoes, red carrots, multi-colored bell peppers—anything to capture the colors of summer and put them on the plate. But since these options are most readily available only in a short period of time, colored rices offer a nice year-round source of healthy color on the plate.

One of our favorite restaurants in town, Koreana, serves a dish called bi bim bahb which consists of several different stir-fried vegetables over rice, with purple rice as one option. Kim, one of the sisters who owns and runs Koreana, explained to me that the purple rice is actually black rice cooked with brown and/or white rice. The color from the black rice bleeds into the cooking water and turns everything purple. In digging further, I learned that the black rice is a whole-grain rice and contains similar health benefits to brown rice.

This led me to search for and experiment with different colored rices. I had to look beyond our local grocery store to find these unusual varieties, but at Whole Foods and at Sendik’s in Whitefish Bay (WI) I was able to find black rice under the name “Forbidden Rice” as well as packages of mixed black and white rices that were marketed as “purple rice” and a different variety altogether marketed as “red rice.”

These rices require slightly different techniques for cooking from one to the next. In general I prefer cooking my rice using the pasta method (boiling it in a large quantity of water and then draining it) as opposed to the pilaf method (cooking the rice in a precise amount of water and stopping when all of the water is absorbed). I have been told repeatedly that the pilaf method is the “proper” method, but I have had much more consistent results using the pasta method and am not about to change anytime soon.

In using the premixed packages of black/white and red/white rices, I heat a 2qt. pot of water to a boil, reduce the heat, then stir in about 1 tsp. of salt. Next, add the amount of rice you want to make, increase the heat until the water returns to a simmer, and cook until the rice is al dente or slightly firm when you bite into it. This usually takes 10-15 minutes, so start testing it at 10 minutes so it doesn’t become a pot of purple mush. Drain the water and let the rice rest on the stove, lid on, until you are ready to serve.

With the “straight” black rice (the Forbidden Rice), I start with the same 2 qt. pot of boiling water and add the 1 tsp. of salt. Then I add black rice to comprise about 2/3 of the total amount of rice I want to cook. Let the black rice simmer for about five minutes, then add basmati or jasmine rice to make up the remaining 1/3 of the total rice. Allow the combined rices to simmer, and start checking it for doneness after seven minutes.

Here are links to both of the rice brands I have tried for black/purple and red rice. I have not purchased from these websites and therefore do not endorse them, but you can see what the package looks like and generally what pricing would be for these items.
Forbidden Rice from Lotus Foods:
Alter Eco Purple Rice and Ruby Red Rice: You probably know that serving a range of color in our foods is more appealing to the eye and therefore makes the food more appetizing. More recently, scientists are telling us that the natural, bright colors of foods contain anthocyanins that our bodies need, and serving a combination of colors can be quite good for us.

But have you ever tried colored rice?

Personally, I’m a big believer in the idea that kids are more likely to try and like new foods if you keep them interesting and fun, and that includes using color. No, green eggs and ham don’t count: too monochromatic, and totally artificial. Sorry, Dr. Seuss.

So in the warm summer months, I raid the farmer’s market for purple potatoes, red carrots, multi-colored bell peppers—anything to capture the colors of summer and put them on the plate. But since these options are most readily available only in a short period of time, colored rices offer a nice year-round source of healthy color on the plate.

One of our favorite restaurants in town, Koreana (www.thekoreana.com), serves a dish called bi bim bahb which consists of several different stir-fried vegetables over rice, with purple rice as one option. Kim, one of the sisters who owns and runs Koreana, explained to me that the purple rice is actually black rice cooked with brown and/or white rice. The color from the black rice bleeds into the cooking water and turns everything purple. In digging further, I learned that the black rice is a whole-grain rice and contains similar health benefits to brown rice.

This led me to search for and experiment with different colored rices. I had to look beyond our local grocery store to find these unusual varieties, but at Whole Foods and at Sendik’s in Whitefish Bay (WI) I was able to find black rice under the name “Forbidden Rice” as well as packages of mixed black and white rices that were marketed as “purple rice” and a different variety altogether marketed as “red rice.”

These rices require slightly different techniques for cooking from one to the next. In general I prefer cooking my rice using the pasta method (boiling it in a large quantity of water and then draining it) as opposed to the pilaf method (cooking the rice in a precise amount of water and stopping when all of the water is absorbed). I have been told repeatedly that the pilaf method is the “proper” method, but I have had much more consistent results using the pasta method and am not about to change anytime soon.

In using the premixed packages of black/white and red/white rices, I heat a 2qt. pot of water to a boil, reduce the heat, then stir in about 1 tsp. of salt. Next, add the amount of rice you want to make, increase the heat until the water returns to a simmer, and cook until the rice is al dente or slightly firm when you bite into it. This usually takes 10-15 minutes, so start testing it at 10 minutes so it doesn’t become a pot of purple mush. Drain the water and let the rice rest on the stove, lid on, until you are ready to serve.

With the “straight” black rice (the Forbidden Rice), I start with the same 2 qt. pot of boiling water and add the 1 tsp. of salt. Then I add black rice to comprise about 2/3 of the total amount of rice I want to cook. Let the black rice simmer for about five minutes, then add basmati or jasmine rice to make up the remaining 1/3 of the total rice. Allow the combined rices to simmer, and start checking it for doneness after seven minutes.

Here are links to both of the rice brands I have tried for black/purple and red rice. I have not purchased from these websites and therefore do not endorse them, but you can see what the package looks like and generally what pricing would be for these items.

Forbidden Rice from Lotus Foods: http://www.lotusfoods.com/Forbidden-Rice/p/LOT-00210&c=LotusFoods@All

Alter Eco Purple Rice and Ruby Red Rice: http://www.worldpantry.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/CategoryDisplay?cgmenbr=688899&cgrfnbr=773890

Monday, March 7, 2011

The Sharpest Knife in the Drawer

Last summer I received a phone call from a young man who said my neighbor gave him my number. A red warning light started flashing in my brain—the last time I received a call like this I ended up enduring a 2-hour vacuum cleaner demonstration. It was not a pleasant experience.

This time the caller said he was heading off to college soon and needed to complete a few more demonstrations of Cutco knives so he could gain credit toward earning a scholarship. Between the “Can you help me out?” plea and the fact that he was demonstrating knives, I couldn’t turn him down.

Unlike the vacuum cleaner sales call, I was really excited at the prospect of this visit. I had a handful of Cutco steak knives that I had received as a gift many years ago, and although they were used quite infrequently, I always liked them. And chopping things is, in my mind, one of the most relaxing and therapeutic parts of cooking. Seriously.

I welcomed the young man into my home a few days later. I listened patiently as he went through his education process on how knives are made, what to look for, what are some of the drawbacks of cheap knives—things I had learned through previous cooking classes, a knife skills class, and trial & error, but that perhaps many people didn’t know. But despite the sales pitch and the interesting demonstrations, these knives with their ridged blades and angular, ergonomically correct handles didn’t take my breath away like my sleek, scary-sharp Wusthof knives.

This was not purely a style-over-substance debate. My Wusthof knives fared quite well in the comparative Cutco tests the salesman performed in my kitchen. The salesman seemed surprised that my knives were sharp and well honed, something I think many people neglect to do just because they don’t know how to do it.

The most significant issues I had against these knives were that 1) I can’t get my head around using a serrated knife for most of my cutting, and 2) there were just so many different knives for specialized purposes that seemed unnecessary. Which leads to this question:

What knives does one really need?

There is an important distinction between “need” and “want.” I recognize that. I have many knives in my drawer, and I love them all (or at least most of them). But when push comes to shove, just three knives can get you through most all of your kitchen adventures: a chef’s knife, a paring knife, and a serrated knife. Some people will tell you that you should also have a flexible boning knife, but I have found that I can do pretty much any task with these three.

The chef’s knife serves most chopping purposes. It has the broadest range of uses and is my go-to knife for nearly everything. The traditional chef’s knife has a smooth, curved blade that is well suited to the rocking motion used when you slice and dice. The trendy new variation on this, the Santoku knife, has a flat blade with dimples on the side designed to reduce friction as you slice through food. Either the traditional chef’s knife or the Santoku function quite well as your all-purpose knife. Whether you choose a 6- or 8-inch blade is purely a matter of preference based on what feels right in your hand.

The paring knife, the short stubby knife in your drawer, handles the finer knife work thanks to its shorter blade and easy fit in your palm. It can be used in place of a vegetable peeler when needed and is also good at trimming mushrooms or cutting other small items.

The serrated blade is best for tearing through tougher surfaces—bread crust, cooked meats, or a tomato skin. I have a bread knife that I often use for slicing pork tenderloin or other meats just because it does the job so well. I’m sure that’s not what they teach at the Culinary Institute, but maybe I’d get points for resourcefulness.

Beyond these three knives, you can expand your collection in many different directions. I have multiples of some types of knives that I use a lot so that I can have one of my marathon weekend cooking sessions and always have a clean knife available to me. So I have both a chef’s knife and a Santoku knife, as well as two paring knives. You can also get more specialized knives, which is where the expansive selections of Cutco knives (or, for that matter, any large knife set) come into play. Some of these special players include a boning knife if you debone a lot of chickens or filet a lot of fish; a grapefruit knife if that’s your thing; a carving knife; or kitchen shears (another favorite of mine).

So even if you have decided what knives you need, do you need to pitch the knives in your drawer & start over?

Not necessarily.

I firmly believe that an investment in a few quality tools in the kitchen makes cooking a more enjoyable experience and results in fewer mistakes in the end. My own set of knives is much like the entirety of my house: a combination of things that were given to me, handed down, and items we bought ourselves. My beautiful family of knives represents a blend of Wusthof (my favorites), Chicago Cutlery (from my wedding registry) and a lone CIA knife (that’s Culinary Institute of America, not the other CIA) that I received as part of a cooking boot camp class.

So, take a look at what you have today, what you need, and replace or fill any gaps as needed. Here are my suggestions:
1. If you’re buying a new knife, invest in quality. Look for knives where the metal extends from the tip of the knife all the way through the handle. Avoid wooden handles which can warp and collect germs. You don’t have to spend a fortune on a knife, but if you’re eyeing a new chef’s knife and it only costs $20, you might want to set your sights a little higher.
2. Hone your knives regularly with a sharpening steel. That’s the tool that looks like a metal dowel with a handle. It serves to align the teeth of the blade so that it remains sharp. A sharp knife is actually a lot safer than a dull knife because it’s less likely to slip off of whatever you’re cutting and into your finger.
3. Sharpen your knives every few years. Honing keeps the knife in good shape, but every few years you need to take a more dramatic step and actually get them sharpened, which actually removes some of the metal in order to create a new edge. This can be done by a professional (our grocery store actually offers this service every year around Thanksgiving), or you can try a sharpening device.
4. Wash your knives by hand to avoid damaging the blade. If the knife blade bangs against other silverware in the dishwasher it can put dings in the blade, or the tip can snap off. In all honesty, I put mine in the dishwasher but I make sure the knife is the only thing in that particular slot in order to reduce the risk of damage.

Happy slicing!